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I want to preface these posts with a short note of appreciation. I visited Cuba to find out how Cubans live in what presumably are the last years of almost 5 decades of isolation from the U.S., a fairly unique position to be in in today's world. Once I arrived I realised this was easier said than done. There is an official party line on a host of issues, which you will probably find from talking to tour guides. There are some additional opinions to be heard from talking to people you bump into. But finding people's true opinions can be difficult, as if the wrong person hears you say the wrong thing you could be in for trouble. As one of the men running the house I stayed at put it, Cubans have 3 faces – the one they wear in the street, the one they wear in the house around friends, and the thoughts in their head.

I have had a scant 3 weeks here, but I feel like a few people have shared some of these thoughts with me, along with various facts about the country the government would prefer tourists not know about, and I am grateful for it. It has made my stay more fascinating than I thought possible. To avoid causing any trouble, any names mentioned here have been changed.